Burghead Pictish Fort and the Burning of the Clavie

Burghead Pictish Fort

Burghead Pictish Fort was built around 400 CE and destroyed by fire a few centuries later. The fort was large and must have been a centre of power and significance to the Picts. It was raided by the Vikings more than once, and in 884 CE it was captured by Sigurd the Powerful, the Earl of Orkney.

The Picts

A Pict at Burghead Pictish Fort

The Picts were a group of peoples probably descended from the Caledonii tribe and other Northern tribes (as featured in Sisters at the Edge of the World). The term ‘Pict’ was used by the Romans from the 3rd century CE to describe the people of what is now Scotland.

The Pictish gentleman above stands by a stone from the original rampart of the fort in the modern-day visitor centre. Below is a depiction of how Burghead would have been in its heyday.

Burghead Pictish Fort

Burning of the Clavie

Burning of the Clavie, Burghead

I attended the ancient fire festival of the Burning of the Clavie a few years ago. It takes place in Burghead every January 11th, on the old Scottish new year. The origins of the festival are unknown, though I suspect it may have something to do with the aforementioned Vikings!

A group of men carry a barrel of tar and staves (the clavie) around the village, followed by a great crowd. When I was there, petrol was then flung onto the clavie, creating large explosions of fire, after which it was left to burn out up at the fort. The pubs in Burghead serve free food on Clavie night.

Burning of the Clavie

The Remains of Burghead Pictish Fort

Sadly, most of the fort stonework was destroyed when the village of Burghead was built in the 19th century. People do sometimes find parts of it in their gardens. The ancient well remains, and I visited it: see the post here

Burghead Pictish Fort: bull

Burghead is the only Pictish site where Bull Stones have been found. There were at least thirty, though many have gone missing over the years.

Burghead Pictish Fort

The sea views are amazing, and though all is peaceful at Burghead today, it’s easy to picture Viking boats approaching… Note the wee swallow flying by in the photo below.

view from Burghead

More info: Burghead visitor site

Sisters at the Edge of the World

Sisters at the Edge of the World

Dive into the rich history of ancient Scotland with “Sisters at the Edge of the World,” a tale of sisterhood, sacrifice, and the struggle for freedom against Roman occupation.

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Vikings and Mermaids at the Beach

sea at Fraserburgh beach - vikings and mermaids

Sky. Sea. Sand. Vikings and mermaids. It’s been a summer of these. Even on dull days it’s been warm, and walks on the beach, beautiful. I’m donning the tour guide hat, and we’re going to explore some beaches, cliffs and caves.

Whitehills

rainbow over the coast: vikings and mermaids

Let’s walk the coast route between Banff and Whitehills. We get rained on, but we get a rainbow.

Below is the Red Well. More on that here as it features in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD (out now!).

The Red Well, Whitehills

Vikings!

No time to linger at the well today as we’re skipping along to Gardenstown and St John’s Kirk. There it is, up on the hill between cloud shadows.

St John's Kirk, Gardenstown - vikings and mermaids

There is an exciting tale of local ladies winning a battle with the Vikings in 1004 by weaponising their stockings with rocks and sand. Three Viking skulls were subsequently built into the walls of the then under-construction Kirk.

The coast as seen from the walls of St John's Kirk, Gamrie - Going Coastal with Ailish Sinclair North East Scotland Beaches

Today it’s a peaceful place, though the landscape is probably much the same as it was during the era of battling lassies and Viking warriors.

landscape at Gamrie

New Aberdour

Time for a picnic and an exploration of the various bays at New Aberdour.

New Aberdour: North East Scotland Beaches

Let’s lie on the ground and gaze up at the red rocks and blue sky above.

rocks and sky: North East Scotland Beaches

We watch, entranced, as sand martins dart in and out of their nests. Whoops, forget to cover the homemade pizza so it’s now covered in sand.  Never mind, just time for a poke around in a rock pool before we go…

rock pool: vikings and mermaids

Fraserburgh

Okay. Shoes off. We’re searching for vikings and mermaids. We’re going to race along the golden shore at Fraserburgh, getting the sand right up between our toes. If we’re feeling energetic we can climb Tiger Hill, that large dune to the right, and enjoy enhanced views of the beach and town.

reflective clouds at the coast: North East Scotland Beaches

A reflective moment.

Fraserburgh beach - reflections at the coast

St Combs

Calming right down now. We turn the corner. Out comes a book and a bar of chocolate as we sit on the rocks at St Combs.

St Combs beach: vikings and mermaids

Walking boots on for this next part…

rocky

The Bullers of Buchan: Mermaids!

On we go, past Peterhead, to seek out mermaids at the Bullers of Buchan. There are folk tales of them being spotted here in the cave known as the Sea Cauldron:

the sea cauldron - vikings and mermaids!

It’s actually quite a dangerous place, with cliff edges all round, so do take care.

The coast at the Bullers of Buchan: vikings and mermaids

We’ve come to the end of our coastal odyssey. Just one more stare at that silvery sea from the Bullers, and then it’s home for a cup of hot chocolate.

The coast at the Bullers of Buchan - Ailish Sinclair, author: vikings and mermaids

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