“There was elf bulls rowtting and skyolling* up and downe there, and they affrighted me.”
So said Isobel Gowdie, when speaking of Fairyland, in her 1662 witchcraft confession. Deer were sometimes referred to as fairy cattle in the Highlands of Scotland. Could they be Isobel’s elf bulls? I have encountered roaring stags in the woods here in Aberdeenshire, and they certainly affrighted me. The baby pictured was less scary.
The elf bulls, and many other mysteries, I contemplate, and on I go…
* Rowtting and skyolling is usually translated as bellowing and screeching, Isobel’s wonderful words conjuring a truly fearsome noise made by the elfin creatures.
Sisters at the Edge of the World
From the misty hills of ancient Scotland emerges a tale of love, betrayal, and the fight for freedom. Join Morragh in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for an unforgettable journey.
“The setting is ethereal and spellbinding as our main characters walk a fine line between what has been and what is to come. A beautiful tale of ancient wonders and kindred souls.” Historical Novel Society review
Bennachie is a large hill that can be seen from many places in Aberdeenshire. Its craggy peaks seem to loom out of nowhere as you drive round twisty corners of country roads. I once climbed it three times in one day for charity. This, and the climb detailed below, were both done some time ago, obviously.
The top of Harthill Castle, which was owned and restored by the late American writer Ann Savage, is just visible over the trees in the photo above.
Bennachie in my writing
Bennachie, and the stone circle at Daviot, both feature in my book, SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD, a tale of chosen sisters, fierce warriors, divided loyalties and love.
The start of any Bennachie climb – we took the easiest ‘Rowan Tree’ route – starts with a misleading forest stroll.
Then you’re out into the baking sun (sometimes; you are equally as likely to emerge to a dense Stephen King style mist) and the views expand.
Parts of the path are pure exposed rock. It feels like standing on the bare face of the planet. I like to kneel and kiss the stone. You do see some strange people on Bennachie…
The ascent gradually gets steeper, the sun gets hotter, and the Mither Tap nears.
Big cairn, little cairn:
Picts!
There’s a Pictish hillfort near the top. You pass between its ancient walls…
And then you cling, terrified, to the side of the uppermost rocks as the strong wind threatens to knock you over. That bit passes quickly. The landscape soon owns your attention.
A Pictish Beast
The Maiden Stone stands near the foot of the hill, a ninth century Pictish stone displaying a good example of the mysterious, much debated ‘Pictish beast’. Swimming elephant? Dolphin? Kelpie?
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More Historical Fiction from me
Set in an Aberdeenshire castle, THE MERMAID AND THE BEAR features the 1597 Aberdeen witchcraft panic, a stone circle, and a love story.
FIREFLIES AND CHOCOLATE was inspired by the 18th century kidnapped children of Aberdeen and is set in both Scotland and Colonial Pennsylvania.
These books are so naughty that I’m a little worried nobody will be able to look me in the face again after reading them. But not that worried. They’re out in the world anyway.
When dance student Amalphia Treadwell embarks on a secret relationship with her charismatic new teacher, she has no idea of the danger that lurks in his school in Scotland…
Small update, July 2026: a year on, and my Isobel Gowdie novel is in its third draft… It’s strange and dark, and I’m loving it. And the mural has had a colourful wee glow-up (above), as seen on my last visit to Auldearn.
Original post from June 2025
I shall go into a hare, With sorrow and syt and meickle care; And I shall go in the Devil’s name, Ay while I come home again.
The quote is part of the extraordinary witchcraft confessions of Isobel Gowdie from 1662. She confessed to shape-shifting, flying, and various activities involving the devil, and it’s said that she offered this information without torture.
There’s no record of torture, just as there’s no record of Isobel’s execution, but, of course, this doesn’t mean these events didn’t happen.
Mural of Isobel Gowdie
It was wonderful to meet artist Helen Wright when my research took me to Auldearn. She has created a beautiful mural depicting the life of Isobel. In the panel above, it is theorised that Isobel may have earned money telling stories to children, an occupation that was available to local women at the time. The tone and narrative of the confessions do suggest she was a gifted storyteller.
The Battle of Auldearn
The battle of Auldearn between the Covenanters and Royalists took place in 1645. There were still troops at Auldearn in 1647, the year when Isobel claimed she had carnal relations with the devil. This part of the confession is lurid and detailed, and, to me, it seems to be some sort of trauma response.
It was great to meet the artist today. From Isobel’s confession (apparently obtained without the usual t0rt*re): I shall go into a hare, With sorrow and sych and meickle care; And I shall go in the D€vil’s name, Ay while I come home again. #history#art#mural#witchcraft#womensart#authorlife#research
You’d think the old kirk where Isobel set some of the meetings with the devil and others would feel creepy and dark. It was atmospheric, yes, but it seemed welcoming somehow. I wanted to stay inside it as if someone had ushered me in and offered me tea.
Interior of the kirk:
So that’s where my writing research has led me… and there’s LOTS of reading to do.
My debut novel involved such research too, and another Isobell…
Set in a fictional castle in Aberdeenshire, Ailish Sinclair’s debut novel, THE MERMAID AND THE BEAR, blends an often overlooked period of history, the Scottish witchcraft accusations, in particular the 1597 Aberdeen witchcraft panic, with a love story.
Published by GWL Publishing, the book is out in paperback and Kindle now.
The Performance: sometimes going home for Christmas is just one huge performance…
When Ariel returns home from dance college, her mother expects her to perform the Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy in a pink, sequined tutu in front of many, many party guests. Ariel adjusts the costume and choreography to expose dark truths about her life, but, as it turns out, this is not the biggest performance of the night…
New Books and Special Offers
If you would like to hear about new books and special offers, you can follow my Amazon author page.
The Culsh Earth House is an Iron Age souterrain near Tarland in Aberdeenshire. Built about 2000 years ago, at the time of Roman occupation in parts of Scotland, this particular earth house is beautifully intact and safe to enter.
You have to crouch or crawl to get in, though, the entrance being very low.
The ceiling gets higher as you progress, and you can finally stand up in the curved end of the passageway.
It’s dry and cool in the earth house, so the theory that these places were used for food storage may be correct. They would also be good for hiding in during times of conflict, and there’s room for a good few people in there. The smallness of the entrance would make it relatively easy to cover.
Or, of course, there could have been a spiritual or ritualistic use.
You certainly head into the light as you, crouching again, leave.
I loved the Culsh Earth House, resembling as it does, the time and some of the settings of Sisters at the Edge of the World. Short video below:
An Iron Age souterrain, rather like some of the settings in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD. From the misty hills of ancient Scotland emerges a tale of love, betrayal, and the fight for freedom. Join Morragh in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for an unforgettable journey. Set in the 1st century, the story includes the battle of Mons Graupius between the Romans and the Caledonian tribes. There’s a neurodivergent main character and some rather complicated romance! #prehistory#booktok
From the misty hills of ancient Scotland emerges a tale of love, betrayal, and the fight for freedom. Join Morragh in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for an unforgettable journey.
Set in 1st century Scotland, the novel includes the battle of Mons Graupius between the Romans and the Caledonian tribes. There’s a neurodivergent main character and some rather complicated romance.
I walked across the stubbly field to Inverallochy Castle at the weekend. It’s one of the nine castles of the knuckle, a term coined by historian William Douglas Simpson. It refers to nine ancient castles built along the rocky (knuckle-like) coast of Buchan in NE Scotland. I’ve been to most of them, so here we go!
Close-up of Inverallochy, a Comyn family castle, dating from 1504:
Apparently there used to be a stone above the door stating that the land around the castle “was obtained by Jordan Comyn for building the abbey of Deer.” Deer Abbey and its older site are some miles away – I wrote about the Abbey here – so that’s a little odd. Maybe ancient plans changed, or the inscription was incorrect. The stone disappeared in the 18th century.
Medieval re enactor and ‘Man at Arms’ Andrew Spratt made this GIF showing how the castle used to look:
We’re going to head north from Inverallochy. There were two knuckle castles south of here – Lonmay and Rattray – but they have crumbled away to nothing. I have written about the ancient chapel at Rattray, and its pirate steps, here.
Cairnbulg Castle
Next up the coast is Cairnbulg Castle, one of the oldest buildings in Aberdeenshire still to be inhabited by the family that built it. It’s home to Lady Saltoun, Chief of the name and arms of Fraser.
The Wine Tower
Not actually a castle, but one of the nine anyway, the Wine Tower in Fraserburgh is a post-reformation Catholic chapel. See my post here
On we go to Pittulie Castle, thought to date from 1596, the year that my novel The Mermaid and the Bear begins, so I have an extra fondness for this castle. In the 18th century the owner was friends with the lovely Lord Pitsligo who lived next door.
Pitsligo Castle
This castle started out as a keep (the high part on the right above) in 1424 but expanded greatly over the centuries. See my post on it here.
Dundarg Castle
Sadly, I have no photos of the last of the nine castles of the knuckle, Dundarg, as it’s on private land right by a house. It sits on a promontory within the ramparts of an Iron Age fort. It’s referenced from the 10th century, though only the gatehouse remains today.
The Mermaid and the Bear
Lost in ancient woodlands and caught up in whispers of witchcraft, Isobell must navigate danger to reclaim her life. Can she find her happily ever after?
Set in a fictional castle in Aberdeenshire, Ailish Sinclair’s debut novel, THE MERMAID AND THE BEAR, blends an often overlooked period of history, the Scottish witchcraft accusations, in particular the 1597 Aberdeen witchcraft panic, with a love story.
Everything about Burghead Well is mysterious. It’s not known who built it, or when, or why.
One definite fact: Burghead Well is huge
It’s much bigger than a plain water source needs to be. The chamber, carved out of solid rock, is five metres wide. The pool is 1 metre deep and fed by an underground spring.
It could have been part of Burghead Pictish Fort (probably built in the 5th century CE), or it could have come before or after the fort. That’s how little is known.
Today, the well sits behind a locked door in the middle of the village of Burghead. I peered through the bars of that door:
It was too intriguing not to walk back up the hill to the Visitor Centre to obtain the key…
Descending the steps
So, twenty minutes later, I descended the steps to the well. It was a bright and sunny day. And then it wasn’t. As soon as I stepped onto the original rock-hewn steps, everything felt dark and sinister. I stopped, wanting to turn and run back up to the light. And then I made myself go on, as I really wanted to see what it was like in the well chamber.
I’ve visited various underground places over the years – caves and barrows – but none of them have ever felt anything like this to me.
The mysterious well at Burghead. Exact date of origin unknown. It may predate or postdate the 4th to 6th century Pictish fort. Exact use unknown, but probably more than just water collection. It was really creepy down on the original steps! Blog coming soon. #pictishsites#wells#ancientwells#prehistory#scotlandtravel
There are various theories as to the original use of the well. It could have been an early site of Christian baptism, a Pagan shrine to water deities, or a place of ritual execution. Maybe archaeologists will uncover answers one day but, for now, Burghead Well remains mysterious.
Set in 1st century Scotland, and featuring the cliffs and caves of Cullykhan Bay, SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD includes the battle of Mons Graupius between the Romans and the Caledonian tribes. The book features a neurodivergent main character and some rather complicated romance…
Taking place mainly in a fictional castle, THE MERMAID AND THE BEAR blends an often overlooked period of history, the Scottish witchcraft accusations, in particular the 1597 Aberdeen witchcraft panic, with a love story.
FIREFLIES AND CHOCOLATE was inspired by the kidnapped children and young people of Aberdeen. The story follows the adventures of Elizabeth Manteith from the castle and her determined efforts to get back home. There’s love. There’s derring-dos on the high seas… And there’s chocolate!
Go here to sign up for my occasional emails that always include some exclusive photos and news of my writing and life. If you would rather just hear about new books and offers, you can follow my Amazon author page.
A misty Midsummer morning: a perfect time to hear the carnyx
It’s Midsummer, and I’m in celebratory mode and sounding my (imaginary) carnyx, a wind instrument of the Iron Age Celts.
Midsummer in the woods
Sound of the Carnyx
In the video below, a musician plays a reconstruction of the Deskford Carnyx. The original was discovered in this area of Scotland and dates from the time of my Iron Age novel, SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD.
SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD
Set in 1st century Scotland, SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD includes the battle of Mons Graupius between the Romans and the Caledonian tribes. The book features a neurodivergent main character and some rather complicated romance…
Midsummer, or High Summer, is important to the people of the book. There’s dancing, singing, storytelling and other, naughtier, activities in the stone circle. There’s also feasting and fighting, and the sound of a newly constructed carnyx.
Go here to sign up for my occasional emails that always include some exclusive photos and news of my writing and life. If you would like to hear about new books and offers, you can follow my Amazon author page.
The Warld’s End (World’s End) is said to be the oldest house in Fraserburgh. I’m not sure if that’s strictly true. It was rebuilt in 1766 after being seized from its Jacobite owner and sold. I don’t think it’s known quite how old the original building was. It played host to Jacobite plotting and was one of the hiding places of Lord Pitsligo after Culloden.
The blue plaque by the door mentions the fact that the land in front of the house was reclaimed from the sea. The house would have stood much closer to the harbour’s edge originally, hence its name, Warld’s End. The plaque also commemorates the Fraserburgh-born merchant Thomas Blake Glover, who may or may not have been the inspiration for the bad guy in the opera Madame Butterfly.
It’s a lovely old house, made all the more striking by the recently painted yellow door. It used to be dark blue as you can see in this older picture of the under-step window:
If you enjoyed this ‘old building’ post, you might also like the one about The Wine Tower, the actual oldest building in Fraserburgh.
Fireflies and Chocolate
Torn out of an isolated life in a Scottish castle, Elizabeth embarks on a determined quest to return home. Exhilarating adventures unfold on the high seas, love blossoms, and the chocolate, purchased in Benjamin Franklin’s printing shop, is delicious!
FIREFLIES AND CHOCOLATE was inspired by the 600 children and young people who were kidnapped from Aberdeen during the 1740s and sold into indentured servitude in the American Colonies.
From the press release: “We really love working with Ailish,” says Wendy Lawrance, co-founder of GWL Publishing. “She knows how to write characters and place, she does her research, and it shows in every word she puts to paper. In Fireflies and Chocolate, Ailish has tackled the difficult topic of slavery with a deft hand. Nothing is sugar-coated. She doesn’t hold back in showing the cruelty of the times, but her characters lead the rallying cry against their tormentors, and it’s impossible not to want to join them. She’s created a true heroine in Elizabeth Manteith. Fiery and forthright, Elizabeth isn’t someone to be argued with. She knows her own mind, and isn’t afraid to speak it. Through her experiences, the reader sees her grow from a girl, into a woman with a powerful voice… a woman of her time, but very much of ours too.”
From the misty hills of ancient Scotland emerges a tale of love, betrayal, and the fight for freedom. Join Morragh in SISTERS AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD for an unforgettable journey.
Set in 1st century Scotland, the novel includes the battle of Mons Graupius between the Romans and the Caledonian tribes. There’s a neurodivergent main character and some rather complicated romance.
Above is a modern standing stone in Culbin Forest. Although pine martens are listed among the wildlife living in this large forest, it’s not where I saw the creature.
The Pine Marten
The pine marten was spotted several days before I visited the forest, in my own garden. It has appeared a few times over the years, and I’d named it ‘Chris Pine’, a fact my husband had forgotten when I texted him this:
They’re quite large animals, about the size of a domestic cat. I found a stock image so you can see what Chris Pine looks like:
So, wondering if I’d see more of his kind (I didn’t), I walked into Culbin.
It was a nice surprise to find a standing stone, albeit a contemporary one. The words on the stone reference the fact that the trees of Culbin are growing on sand dunes.
The forest floor is indeed made soft with the sand and a deep layer of pine needles.
Be careful the trees don’t trip you!
There’s something about the light in mature Scots Pine forests. It’s quite unique and beautiful, and I love it.
Lost in ancient woodlands and caught up in whispers of witchcraft, Isobell must navigate danger to reclaim her life. Can she find her happily ever after?
The Performance: sometimes going home for Christmas is just one huge performance…
When Ariel returns home from dance college, her mother expects her to perform the Dance of the Sugar Plum Fairy in a pink, sequined tutu in front of many, many party guests. Ariel adjusts the costume and choreography to expose dark truths about her life, but, as it turns out, this is not the biggest performance of the night…
New Books and Special Offers
If you would like to hear about new books and special offers, you can follow my Amazon author page.
